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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary honour.